Toggle menu
Toggle preferences menu
Toggle personal menu
Not logged in
Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits.

Wii:Hardmod unbrick: Difference between revisions

From Hacks Guide Wiki
Lazr (talk | contribs)
m Initial Page. It will remain unfinished until I can test a Teensy and RPi on 6L, 4L, and Wii Mini boards.
Lazr (talk | contribs)
m Make the images slightly smaller
 
(3 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)
Line 25: Line 25:


= Unbricking the Wii =
= Unbricking the Wii =
There are 3 different kinds of boards that the Wii used during its lifespan: 6 layer boards (RVL-CPU-01, RVL-CPU-10, RVL-CPU-20, and RVL-CPU-30), 4 layer boards (RVL-CPU-40, RVL-CPU-50, RVL-CPU-60, RVK-CPU-01, and RVK-CPU-02), and the Wii Mini board. I don't have a Wii Mini, so I cannot get scans of it and it will be unsupported for now.
There are 3 different kinds of boards that the Wii used during its lifespan: 6 layer boards (RVL-CPU-01, RVL-CPU-10, RVL-CPU-20, and RVL-CPU-30), 4 layer boards (RVL-CPU-40, RVL-CPU-50, RVL-CPU-60, RVK-CPU-01, and RVK-CPU-02), and the Wii Mini board.


What board you have is important to know, as they all have the NAND in different spots, orientations, and the via locations are different. [https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/revision-identification-guide.863/ This post] on BitBuilt.net is excellent on showing you how to check your board revision.
What board you have is important to know, as they all have the NAND in different spots, orientations, and the via locations are different. [https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/revision-identification-guide.863/ This post] on BitBuilt.net is excellent on showing you how to check your board revision.
Line 31: Line 31:
Now that (hopefully) you know what board you have, you can follow the respective guide:
Now that (hopefully) you know what board you have, you can follow the respective guide:
I recommend you solder to the vias. You can solder to the traces, but either you are insane or skilled enough, or both to not be using the vias.
I recommend you solder to the vias. You can solder to the traces, but either you are insane or skilled enough, or both to not be using the vias.
You also need to scratch the vias/traces to expose the copper. Some boards have plugged vias, so you will need to use the "pad" thats created after tinning the vias, instead of being able to shove your magwire into the vias.
You also need to scratch the vias/traces to expose the copper. Some boards have plugged vias, so you will need to use the "pad" thats created after tinning the vias, instead of being able to shove your magwire into the vias.
<tabber>
<tabber>
Line 37: Line 38:


<span>
<span>
[[File:6L_NAND.png|center]]
{{info|text = For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors, scratch some of the soldermask off of the GND plane above the NAND, or use TP3.}}
For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors, scratch some of the soldermask off of the GND plane above the NAND, or use TP3.
[[File:6L_NAND.png|left|600px]]
</span>
 
|-|4 Layer=
<span>
Open the picture in another tab and zoom in. This will give you the full quality of the scans.
[[File:4L_NAND.png|left]]
For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors or use TP3.
</span>
</span>


|-|Wii Mini=
|-|4 Layer / Wii Mini=
<span>
<span>
The Wii Mini is unsupported at this time.
{{info|text = For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors or use TP3.}}
[[File:4L_NAND.png|left|600px]]
</span>
</span>
</tabber>
</tabber>