For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors, scratch some of the soldermask off of the GND plane above the NAND, or use TP3. |
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= Unbricking the Wii = | = Unbricking the Wii = | ||
There are 3 different kinds of boards that the Wii used during its lifespan: 6 layer boards (RVL-CPU-01, RVL-CPU-10, RVL-CPU-20, and RVL-CPU-30), 4 layer boards (RVL-CPU-40, RVL-CPU-50, RVL-CPU-60, RVK-CPU-01, and RVK-CPU-02), and the Wii Mini board | There are 3 different kinds of boards that the Wii used during its lifespan: 6 layer boards (RVL-CPU-01, RVL-CPU-10, RVL-CPU-20, and RVL-CPU-30), 4 layer boards (RVL-CPU-40, RVL-CPU-50, RVL-CPU-60, RVK-CPU-01, and RVK-CPU-02), and the Wii Mini board. | ||
What board you have is important to know, as they all have the NAND in different spots, orientations, and the via locations are different. [https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/revision-identification-guide.863/ This post] on BitBuilt.net is excellent on showing you how to check your board revision. | What board you have is important to know, as they all have the NAND in different spots, orientations, and the via locations are different. [https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/revision-identification-guide.863/ This post] on BitBuilt.net is excellent on showing you how to check your board revision. | ||
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Now that (hopefully) you know what board you have, you can follow the respective guide: | Now that (hopefully) you know what board you have, you can follow the respective guide: | ||
I recommend you solder to the vias. You can solder to the traces, but either you are insane or skilled enough, or both to not be using the vias. | I recommend you solder to the vias. You can solder to the traces, but either you are insane or skilled enough, or both to not be using the vias. | ||
You also need to scratch the vias/traces to expose the copper. Some boards have plugged vias, so you will need to use the "pad" thats created after tinning the vias, instead of being able to shove your magwire into the vias. | You also need to scratch the vias/traces to expose the copper. Some boards have plugged vias, so you will need to use the "pad" thats created after tinning the vias, instead of being able to shove your magwire into the vias. | ||
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{{info|text = For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors, scratch some of the soldermask off of the GND plane above the NAND, or use TP3.}} | |||
For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors, scratch some of the soldermask off of the GND plane above the NAND, or use TP3. | [[File:6L_NAND.png|left|600px]] | ||
[[File: | |||
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|-|Wii Mini= | |-|4 Layer / Wii Mini= | ||
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{{info|text = For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors or use TP3.}} | |||
[[File:4L_NAND.png|left|600px]] | |||
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Let me (Lazr) preface this guide by saying that this is NOT for noobs. You will have to solder to small vias or traces (if you so choose) in order to unbrick your Wii with another piece of hardware.
I am aware that there are tools that "clip" (they are pressure-fitted) onto the NAND flash (aka 360 Clip), but they are pretty pricey (I paid $40, and eventually the ribbon cable wore out) and there are cheaper options, like the ones shown here, but it requires manual wiring.
You should also exhaust all other options before resorting to hardware flashing, like the BootMii NAND restore, or maybe you don't even need to restore.
In the guide, I will cover both Teensy2.0++ and the Raspberry Pi Zero. Theoretically, any Pi can be used for this, but I only have the Zero, so use at your own risk!
pip install pyserial
). Depending on what script above you use. Do note that Python 2 is deprecated and getting everything installed might be a PITA.g++ rpi-raw-nand-v3.c -o rpi-raw-nand-v3
on the RPi.There are 3 different kinds of boards that the Wii used during its lifespan: 6 layer boards (RVL-CPU-01, RVL-CPU-10, RVL-CPU-20, and RVL-CPU-30), 4 layer boards (RVL-CPU-40, RVL-CPU-50, RVL-CPU-60, RVK-CPU-01, and RVK-CPU-02), and the Wii Mini board.
What board you have is important to know, as they all have the NAND in different spots, orientations, and the via locations are different. This post on BitBuilt.net is excellent on showing you how to check your board revision.
Now that (hopefully) you know what board you have, you can follow the respective guide: I recommend you solder to the vias. You can solder to the traces, but either you are insane or skilled enough, or both to not be using the vias.
You also need to scratch the vias/traces to expose the copper. Some boards have plugged vias, so you will need to use the "pad" thats created after tinning the vias, instead of being able to shove your magwire into the vias.
For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors, scratch some of the soldermask off of the GND plane above the NAND, or use TP3. |
For GND, you can use one of the sides of the capacitors or use TP3. |
Select what you will be using to reflash the NAND:
Connect all of the CLE, ALE, RE, and WE pins to their respective pins. You can use magwire to do this, or solder blob them together. |
ALL of the commands should be ran without any <> in them, ie. python3 NANDway3.py /dev/ttyUSB0 0 info . |
Linux users might have to run some of the commands as root. |
tty
. Run ls /dev/tty*
in a terminal and look for ttyUSB0
.cd
to where the NANDway script is.python(or python3) <NANDway.py or NANDway3.py> <serial ID> 0 info
<python or python3> <NANDway.py or NANDway3.py> <serial ID> 0 vwrite <NAND dump>
, otherwise check your wiring.
You only need to use one GND point. |
home
directory on the SD card (ie /home/pi
).sudo ./rpi-raw-nand-v3 50 read_id
.sudo ./rpi-raw-nand-v3 50 erase_blocks 0 4096 && sudo ../rpi-raw-nand-v3 50 write_full 0 262144 <NAND dump>
, otherwise check your wiring.